Doug Dowd

Vien, Österreich

Dear friends,

This takes the place of my now-and-then “Letter from Bologna,” for a good reason: Anna and I must escape from Bologna’s very hot and polluted air in the summer. So one of my ex-students who is Viennese found us an apartment here...and the rest began. Some of you will have been fortunate enough to have visited (or even lived) here. This communication is for those who have not.

Vienna is a lovely city, rife with surface contradictions: The people I have come to know — casually or more than that — are unusually friendly, pleasant, and generous in spirit. At the same time, however, this is the most tightly organized city I have known: There are police all over the place and all kinds of rules and regs regarding this and that and who knows what all! If your dog shits on the street, the fine is 36 euro (about $55). But all over the city there are places on the sidewalks where you can get free little bags.

The buses, trams, and subways are clean and fast and comfy and run often — but they are not cheap. One eats and drinks very well here, and the adventure doesn’t cost too much (unless you want it to). There are numerous Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, French, and of course, Viennese places to eat.

The weather? We were told to expect temperatures about the same as Bologna but, because of the nearby Alps, with cooling winds. That was right, except that, as with much of Europe in recent weeks, Vienna has had storms and unremitting cold.

Did I mention music...and art...and multi-museums of all sorts? Within two minutes of our apartment is (I stay with English) Mozart St., on one side of which is Mozart Square, with benches, in the middle of which is an exquisite metal statue (and pond) of a man passionately playing a — “magic” — flute, as he is just as passionately embraced from behind by a comely woman.

A block away is Brahm’s Square. On the outskirts is where Beethoven lived and worked. History footnote: Beethoven was German; Hitler was Austrian. The Viennese like to put it differently: Beethoven was Viennese, Hitler was from Berlin.

But, of course, Austria was taken over all too easily by the Nazis before World War II began, not least (or only) because Austria (especially Vienna), both before and after World War I, had a strong left movement. It was strong enough, it’s worth adding, that among others of their contributions is the still-functioning housing: inexpensive and well-designed. (We should all live so long.)

I could go on, but because I’m temporarily out of energy, I will stop by noting a striking peculiarity. From our first days until now, I have been struck by the great number of very tall men and women walking by. When I was young, I was six-foot three. That was tall for men in the days when I was young. So puzzled was I that, a few days ago, while walking our dog (and assiduously seeking to avoid the 36 euro Hundscheisse fine), I decided to take a count: Fifteen men passed me. Nine of them were taller than I am.

Scientists agree that our species originated in Africa. I have a hypothesis. Is it not likely that among the innumerable tribes that migrated to the North that one or more of the tribes with very tall men and women, after having struggled their way over the Alps, decided to stop and stay in the lovely vales of Austria? I asked that question of my Viennese friend, who is six feet six. He agreed; indeed he added this. His family name is a long one, but the last part of it is “-negger.” He himself (like the other tall men I have been noticing) is “snow white.” But he said that when he was a boy he was often taunted by other boys who called him by what he call “that last part.”

Just a guess; not important, but (at least to me), interesting.

Gotta take a nap. Gettin’ old. No serious health problems at all, I just get tired more easily. We’re back in Bologna in a week or so. Do a dance for rain (there).

Lotsa warm feelings,

Doug